Digital Camera Features

Focusing Mode

A camera either provides autofocusing (AF) capability or it requires manual focusing.

Common Focus Modes:

AF-C (Auto Focus continuous, sometimes called servo) is good use when photographing moving objects. When your camera is set to AF-C and you focus on a moving subject, for example a sprinter running towards you, the focus will stay on the runner so long as your shutter button is held half way down. In other words, the camera will keep re-focusing as the subject moves.

AF-S (AF single, sometimes called single area AF) mode, is good for photographing subjects that don't move, such as flowers or portraits etc. It locks the focus on the non moving object that you want to photograph. It then allows you to recompose and shoot.

AF-A is where the camera selects and goes between the last two modes. If it thinks the subject you are photographing is stationary, then it will automatically use AF-S focus mode. If it picks up that the subject you're photographing is a moving subject, then it will automatically use AF-C focus mode. This is also the default camera focus mode, unless you change the setting to AF-C or AF-S.

MF is the manual focus mode. With this mode you are the one making the focus decisions.

Aperture and Shutter Speed Controls

These settings determine the exposure. Exposure is commonly determined using one of four methods:

Fully Automatic - the camera determines the aperture and shutter speed

Manual - the photographer determines the aperture and shutter speed

Aperture priority - the photographer determines the desired aperture and the camera determines the best shutter speed

Shutter priority - the photographer determines the desired shutter speed and the camera determines the best aperture

The aperture settings available are determined by the lens while the shutter speeds available are determined by the camera.

Your cameras will probably have many more modes than these. They are discussed elsewhere.

Camera Metering modes

Picking the best metering modes can be one of the most frustrating learning curves for photographers. If you have ever taken an under or over exposed photograph using program mode (P), aperture priority (A Nikon, AV Canon) or shutter priority (S NIkon, TV Canon), chances are you've made some mistakes in your metering settings.

Your cameras metering system works by measuring the amount of brightness in the vewfinder and then setting the exposure. While the camera is anything but fool proof in this area a good understanding of metering modes can help improve your accuracy.

What metering modes are available

Most SLR camera's will give you a choice of at least three different metering systems. Their names will vary based upon the camera manufacturer and some cameras will have additional modes which further refine the basic modes.

Most brands all name the second mode, Center-weighted metering or very close to it.

Matrix metering on Nikon camera's is called either Pattern or Evaluative on other models.

Whereas Spot metering found on Nikon SLR's, basically work similar to Partial metering on Canon digital camera's.

More on when to use which mode is listed below.

Flash Capabilities

A big consideration on flash is the fastest shutter speed setting you may use with the flash. On most cameras this 200 sec or less but some cameras can go well beyond that.

Self-Timer

This allows for a delay, typically around 10 seconds, in triggering the shutter. This is often used when the photographer would like to appear in the photograph.

Remote Release

A remote release allows you to fire the camera from a distance. This allows the shutter to be pressed without actually touching the camera, and generally results in sharper images.

Metering Modes - When to use which one.

When to use Matrix (Pattern, Evaluative) metering modes

Matrix, Pattern and Evaluative are considered good all-round metering modes. The camera sets the exposure automatically to suit the scene, taking into consideration both dark and light area's. It's considered good for evenly backlit subjects like portraiture and landscapes. It's also the way to go when you're simply not sure which metering mode is best for your subject.

Matrix metering works by dividing the frame into zones, taking separate readings from each one. The camera then takes a guess at what parts of the scene are important and exposes accordingly. It does a pretty good job at picking the correct exposure.

When to use Center-weighted metering

Center-weighted metering assigns the greatest weight for exposure to the middle area of the frame. Therefore, it's good for times when your main subject is in the middle of the frame.

Center weighted metering would be more effective when you have a bright background or backlit subject. An example of this would be a persons face on a sunny day with a watery or lighter background. Center weighted is less affected by that bright sand or open field. As long as the persons face was correctly exposed, that's all that matters. It's times like this, you would choose center weighted metering.

When to use Spot or Partial metering

Spot (Nikon) or Partial (Canon) metering should be used when you want to take an exposure reading on a specific area. It takes the reading from a very small area in the middle of your subject.

You would use spot or partial metering for example, if you had a slightly shaded white dog, against a darker background. You would then take the exposure from the dogs coat and the darker background wouldn't effect the coloring. Wildlife photographers often use this mode.