Fireworks Photography Fundamentals - Quick Lessons for Digital Camera Users
The History of Fireworks
It is generally accepted that fireworks originated in China during the Sung dynasty (960-1279). A cook discovered that a mixture of sulphur, saltpetre, and charcoal was highly flammable and would explode if confined in a small space. While first used for entertainment it eventually evolved into the development of weaponry and was used to shoot rocket-powered arrows.
In the 7th century the techniques spread west to Europe in the 13th century where pyrotechnics developed. Guns were created in the 14th century. It was not until the 19th century that fireworks became as vividly colourful as we know them today. Brilliant colours are achieved by combining potassium chlorate and various metallic salts.
Firework shows are a fantastic display of physics. The pyrotechnist must take into account the relationships between vectors, velocities, projectiles and their trajectories together with the explosion forces behind burst patterns. (Thanks to Bigfoto for their content contribution.)
Fireworks Photography Fundamentals - Auto-Focus
This is simple. Turn it off and set your camera to infinity. For DSLR users this is quite simple. Most nicer point and shoot cameras will also allow you to do this.
Fireworks Photography Basics — A Slow Shutter Speed.
When the firework is a rocket you have a trail that leads up to a light show of lights which then fades. Your camera's shutter needs to remain open long enough to record the entire event.
As discussed in the classes the characteristics of exposure are much like that of shooting slide film. Care must be taken not to overexpose and lose detail and color in the highlights. When compared to the night sky fireworks are the highlights of the image.
The length of time that the shutter should stay open is not a simple answer. Questions like how far away are the fireworks and how bright they are will affect your results. The key is that the shutter will need to stay open and the camera must be perfectly still. One to three second exposures are not un-common.
Point and shoot owners often have a fireworks setting. If you have that setting try it and see what you get. If you see a lot of flashing highlights try your exposure compensation. If all else fails, go to manual and read on. (Actually I hope you have read this before the show and are not trying to read it during.)
Regardless of your camera setting the real key is making sure that the camera captures enough of the fireworks to give you an image that tells the story of the fireworks. Shorter exposure times don't always capture the full burst and longer exposures tend to produce washed-out or busy result. If your camera has full manual operation you can use the bulb setting with a remote release. The remote release will keep you from moving the camera when firing the shutter.
The trick to using Bulb is being able to open the shutter right at the beginning of the burst and close it when it reaches its peak. With practice you will become better at anticipating the explosion. If your digital camera is lacking a Bulb setting you can choose a long shutter speed such as 1, or 3 seconds
.
Fireworks Photography — Choosing the Correct Aperture.
In the previous module we established that you need a 1-3 second exposure to capture the entire event. As you know from the Exposure Triangle page shutter speed is one piece of the puzzle. The next question is "What aperture should I use?" Your f-stop, or aperture, will be determined by the ISO you select.
Fireworks are bright. Kinda like the discussion we had on Photographing the Moon, it is easy to underestimate just how bright fireworks are. Your goal is to record the color of the fireworks against a dark sky. Your camera does not have a slow enough ISO for you to use a wide open aperture. Doing so will cause those color displays to "burn out" and appear white as opposed to being colorful.
When setting your camera manually use an aperture of f/8, or f/11, or even f/16. The final decision will be based upon how your first images look, the fireworks and your position, as well as the camera's ISO setting.
If your camera has a "bracketing mode" you might want to try it. What would happen with this setting turned on is that each time you press the shutter the camera would cycle between under-exposure, over-exposure, and the settings you have used. The down side to this is that some cameras will want to take the three images for you. Check it out before you get there.
Here are some sample ISO and Aperture setting to get you started.
| ISO SETTING | APERTURE RANGE |
| ISO 100 | ƒ/8 to 16 |
| ISO 200 | ƒ/11 to 22 |
| ISO 400 | ƒ/16 to 22 |
If you have a point and shoot you are probably not left out on this option. If present, try your fireeworks mode. If you do not have that mode look for Manual.
Regardless of your camera model, you'll want to check your results by reviewing your photos on your camera's LCD, and making adjustments until you have that perfect expsoure.
Fireworks Photography Fundamentals - Composition
Typically, you'll be better off with a vertical format rather than horizontal. Afterall, your subject is shooting straight up. The final decision about the frame will also depend on where you are in relation to the fireworks and what other objects can add to the photograph. The key is looking at your camera's LCD and seeing what works best for you.
Fireworks Photography Fundamentals - Find the Right Position
Just like any other kind of landscape photography it comes down to location, location, location. Take a few minutes before the show to scout the location. For a smaller show, you may be able to chat with the pyrotechnic crew beforehand. Regardless of what camera you have, to get the best fireworks photos try to determine where the fireworks will be launched and try to find a clear, unobstructed view that will let you capture the burst. Don't underestimate the height at which the fireworks will explode. Watch for light sources such as streetlights or headlights which can cause Lens flare. Watch out for tree branches that can sneak into your composition too.
Which Focal Length Lens Should you Use
The answer here is quite simple. Use the one which will allow the fireworks display to full the image and allow some room for higher and lower bursts.
Fireworks Photography Fundamentals - Composition
As with all photography one of your goals should be to create depth and strive for a balanced composition. The fireworks themselves are quite dramatic. Try to include trees other buildings, or other points of interest in your photographs. If you are trying to bring trees or plants into the image you need to consider:
- using a higher ISO/F-stop so that both are in focus.
- If there is a lot of wind the trees will be moving and will only be blurry shadows in the foreground.
Fireworks Photography Fundamentals - What to bring
Here is my check list for Fireworks Photography.
- TRIPOD - Regardless of your camera, the key to success is a solid support which will hold your camera motionless during the exposure. The best platform of all is a GOOD tripod. Tripods provide a solid, easy-to-carry portable base on which to hold the camera motionless and position the camera.
- A REMOTE RELEASE - You will want the camera to be as vibrationless as possible during the time-exposure. No matter how gentle you are, pressing and holding the shutter button can cause the camera to vibrate. A remote release will help steady the camera for you.
If your DSLR is advanced it may have a mirror lock up. If it does, use it. This locks the mirror in an up position and stops the shake caused by it raising.
- Flash Light - Unless you are good enough to have memorized every button on your camera this will help you quickly make changes. Your cell phone may give you enough light to leave this one at home.
- Extra batteries - Long exposures will drain a battery more quickly.
- Don't forget the camera and batteries.
Digital Photography Fundamentals - Photoshop Noise Reduction
Noise is a pattern that you get in your digital photographs from high iso, long exposures, and other causes. Here is a quick way to reduce this in Photoshop.
1. Create a black image picture with your camera. To make a black frame, place the lens cap over the lens and take a picture using the same settings that you used during your fireworks photographs.
2. Open the black frame file and then start to look at your images.
3. When you have an image you want to "fix" do a Shift + Drag and drag the black frame image over the noisy image. This will create a new layer. (The reason for the Shift key is to ensure that the new layer maintains perfect registration.)
4. Change the Layer Mode of the black frame layer to Difference Mode.
This should reduce the significantly. Other options are programs like Noise Ninja, or Neat Image.